What a pre-purchase inspection is, how long it takes, and what you get
A pre-purchase inspection is an independent mechanic going through a used car before you buy it, so you know what you are paying for. Ours takes about an hour at the seller's location, covers the whole car including a road test and a full computer scan, and ends with a written report you can use to negotiate or walk away.
The full inspection described on this page, at the car, with a written report. About an hour.
The hour, roughly
| Minutes | What is happening | What it finds |
|---|---|---|
| 0 to 5 | Cold start, listen, exhaust check | Timing chain noise, smoke, lifter tick, hard starting |
| 5 to 20 | Engine bay: fluids, leaks, belts, hoses, mounts, cooling system | Head gasket signs, neglected service, leaks about to become expensive |
| 20 to 35 | Underneath: frame, rust, suspension, steering, exhaust, brakes measured | Accident repair, bent components, worn joints, remaining brake life |
| 35 to 45 | Body: paint gauge on every panel, gaps, glass, tires and date codes | Respray, replaced panels, flood signs, old tires with good tread |
| 45 to 50 | Full scan of every module, check for cleared codes | Faults the dash is not showing, codes wiped before your visit |
| 50 to 65 | Road test: highway, stop and go, braking, steering | Transmission behaviour, bearings, pulls, vibration, noises under load |
| After | Written report with ranked findings and rough repair costs | A number to negotiate with, or a reason to leave |
Cars with a lot wrong take longer, because there is more to document. Cars with nothing wrong do not get shorter, because proving that takes the same hour.
What it is, in one paragraph
You have found a used car. Before you pay for it, a mechanic who does not work for the seller examines it: mechanically, electronically, structurally, and on the road. They tell you what is wrong with it, what is about to be, and roughly what each of those things costs. You then buy it at a price that reflects reality, or you do not buy it.
That is the whole product. The trade calls it a PPI. Buyers just call it getting the car checked out.
Who is there and where it happens
The car stays where it is: a private seller's driveway, a dealer's lot, a parking garage, the street outside an apartment. We come to it. That removes the main obstacle to getting a used car inspected in New York, which is that sellers do not want their car driven across the borough to a stranger's garage, and buyers do not want to organise it.
You can be there or not. Most buyers come, and it is worth doing once, because watching someone go through a car teaches you what to look for. The seller is usually present and usually leaves us alone. We do not need them for anything except the keys and, ideally, not having started the car that morning.
What gets checked, and how
The engine from cold, because a warm engine hides chain rattle, smoke, and hard starting. Every fluid by condition: coolant for oil contamination, oil for coolant, transmission fluid for the burnt smell that means the clutches are going. The cooling system under pressure. Belts, hoses, mounts.
Underneath, with the car on a jack and stands, the frame rails and floor for rust, kinks, and fresh undercoating hiding either. Suspension components loaded and unloaded for play. Steering rack, tie rods, ball joints. Brake pad and rotor thickness measured with a gauge rather than guessed from the wheel.
The body with a paint thickness gauge on every panel. Factory paint is a consistent thickness; a respray is not, and it is the fastest way to find accident repair that never made it to a history report. Panel gaps, bolt heads, glass date stamps, overspray in door jambs. Tires for wear pattern, which tells you about alignment and suspension, and date codes, because tires age out regardless of tread.
Then the electronics. A full scan of every control module, not just the engine, for stored and pending codes. Modern cars have twenty or more modules and the dashboard warning light only reports a fraction of what they know. We also check whether codes were cleared recently, which is one of the more useful things a scan tool can tell you about a seller.
Then the road. Fifteen minutes, with highway speed and stop-and-go in it, listening for bearings, feeling for pulls, shudders, hard shifts, and a transmission that behaves differently once warm.
What you get at the end
A written report, in language written for a buyer. It ranks what we found by what matters: things that make the car a bad buy, things that need doing soon, things that will need doing eventually, and things that are cosmetic. Each item has a rough cost to put right.
You also get us, for a few minutes, to talk it through. Most of the value of a report is in the conversation about whether the list is normal for a car of that age and mileage, or whether it is the list of a car that has been neglected or hidden.
The report is yours. What you share with the seller is your call.
What an inspection cannot tell you
It is a snapshot. A car that is fine on Tuesday can develop a fault on Friday, and no inspection changes that. It can tell you the transmission behaves correctly today; it cannot promise it will for another 50,000 miles.
It cannot see inside an engine or transmission without taking them apart. It cannot always tell whether a repair was done well if the repair was done well. It cannot check a car the seller will not let us drive, beyond what a static inspection shows.
And it is not a guarantee. It is information, gathered by somebody with no stake in the sale, so you make the decision with the same knowledge the seller has.
Booking one in NYC
Text us the year, make, model, where the car is, and when the seller can do it. We confirm a time, turn up, and you have a report within the hour. Inspections start at $95 anywhere in Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan, the Bronx, Staten Island, and Long Island.
Common questions
How long does a pre-purchase inspection take?
About an hour for a normal passenger car, including the road test. Allow a little more for something with a lot of findings to document, or for a car where we cannot get underneath easily.
Do I need to be there?
No, though it helps. If you cannot be, we inspect on your behalf, send the report with photos, and call you from the car if anything needs a decision on the spot.
What should I tell the seller?
That a mechanic will come to the car at an agreed time, that it takes about an hour, and that you would like the car left cold that morning. Reasonable sellers agree readily. Unreasonable ones tell you something useful.
Does an inspection replace a vehicle history report?
No, they answer different questions. A history report tells you what was reported: title status, recorded accidents, service records somebody submitted. The inspection tells you what the car physically is today, including the accidents nobody reported. Get both. The history report is the cheap one.
What if the seller says the car was just inspected?
Ask by whom, and for whom. A seller's own mechanic and a dealer's reconditioning check both have a customer, and it is not you. That does not make them dishonest. It makes them the wrong inspection for a buyer.
Ready to have the car checked?
Text us the car, the year, and the symptom for a free quote. We typically reply in under five minutes and can often come the same day.
More on pre-purchase inspection
Pre-Purchase Inspection by borough
Back to our pre-purchase inspection service.
