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Buying from a private seller? We inspect the car where it sits

We meet the car at the seller, wherever it is parked, so you never have to talk them into driving it to a shop. From $95, about an hour, with everything found written down.

Starts at $95

Inspection price, about an hour, including the road test and the full module scan.

The problem with private sales

A private seller has one job on the day you turn up: make the car look good for twenty minutes. Washed, vacuumed, warmed up before you arrive so it starts cleanly, parked facing the sun so the paintwork reads better than it is.

You get a walk around a parking lot and a short drive around the block, usually on a route the seller chooses. That is not enough to find anything, and both of you know it.

The obvious answer is to have a mechanic look at it, and the obvious obstacle is that the seller is not going to drive their car across the city to your shop and sit in a waiting room while a stranger looks for reasons you should pay less. Most of them will simply say no and move to the next buyer.

Removing that trip removes the objection. We come to the car, which means the ask becomes "can my guy meet us at yours for an hour" rather than "can you take a morning off". That version gets a yes far more often.

What we look for on a marketplace car specifically

Private and marketplace listings have their own set of tells, separate from the mechanical inspection.

Title status and paperwork, starting with whether the name on the title matches the person selling it. A seller who is not the registered owner, or a title that has been signed over but never transferred, is a curbstoner flipping cars without a dealer license, and that comes with everything from undisclosed accident history to outright odometer fraud.

We check the VIN on the dash against the VIN on the door jamb and the paperwork, since a mismatch is a very short conversation. We look for fresh undercoating sprayed in one specific area, which almost always means rust or a repair underneath rather than diligent maintenance. We check whether the codes were recently cleared by reading the readiness monitors. And we look at the small stuff that signals how the car was actually run: four cheap tires on a car with worn suspension, a brand new battery on a car with a charging fault, an interior detailed to a shine on a car with a leaking valve cover.

How to set it up without spooking the seller

Ask early, before you have negotiated, and frame it as a formality rather than an accusation. Something close to "if we agree on a price I would want my mechanic to look at it, he comes to you and it takes an hour" works, because it tells the seller the inspection is a step toward buying rather than a fishing expedition.

Offer to work around their schedule and their location, which costs you nothing since we are coming to the car either way. Make it clear you are paying for it, because sellers occasionally assume they are being asked to fund it.

If a seller refuses outright, that is information. Some are simply wary, and a bit of reassurance settles it. But a seller who will not let an independent mechanic look at a car they claim is in great shape has told you what you needed to know, and it cost you nothing.

Using the report on the price

You get the findings in writing with rough repair costs attached, which changes the shape of the negotiation entirely.

Without it you are arguing about feelings: you think it is worth less, they think it is worth more, and neither of you can prove anything. With it you are pointing at a number. Rear pads and rotors are due, the rear shocks are leaking, and there is an oil leak at the valve cover, and here is roughly what those cost. That is a conversation about arithmetic, and sellers concede arithmetic far more readily than opinion.

Often the repairs are worth less than the inspection saved you on the price. Sometimes the list is long enough that the right answer is to walk, and an hour and $95 has saved you from a car that would have cost thousands.

Online sellers and out-of-state cars

The same logic applies to cars bought through online retailers or shipped in from out of state, with one difference: you often have a limited return window rather than a chance to negotiate.

That makes the timing matter. An inspection early in the return period tells you whether to keep the car or send it back while you still can, and it is a far cheaper way to find a problem than discovering it after the window closes.

We can meet the car wherever it is delivered, anywhere across Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan, the Bronx, Staten Island, and Long Island.

Common questions

Can you inspect a car listed on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist?

Yes, that is a large part of what this is for. We meet the car at the seller's location, so nobody has to move it, and you get the written findings before any money changes hands.

What if the seller will not agree to an inspection?

Then you have learned something valuable for free. Plenty of hesitation is just wariness and settles once they know we come to them and it takes an hour, but a flat refusal on a car that is supposedly in great condition is usually its own answer.

Should I inspect before or after agreeing on a price?

Agree on a price subject to inspection. That way the seller has committed to a number, and anything the inspection turns up becomes a deduction from it rather than a starting point for a fresh argument.

Is it worth $95 on a cheap car?

Often more so, not less. On an inexpensive car a single missed repair can be a large fraction of what you paid, and cheap cars are where deferred maintenance tends to accumulate.

Meeting a seller this weekend?

Text us the car, the year, and the symptom for a free quote. We typically reply in under five minutes and can often come the same day.

More on pre-purchase inspection

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